\u041f\u0438\u043a \u0421\u043e\u043c\u043e\u043d\u0438 (\u041a\u043e\u043c\u043c\u0443\u043d\u0438\u0437\u043c\u0430) 7495 \u043c \u0438 \u041a\u043e\u0440\u0436\u0435\u043d\u0435\u0432\u0441\u043a\u043e\u0439 7105 \u2014 \u044d\u043a\u0441\u043f\u0435\u0434\u0438\u0446\u0438\u044f \u041f\u0430\u043c\u0438\u0440<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n
\nWhy the Central Pamir (Moskvina) Region is Unique<\/h2>\n
Traditionally, the central and northwestern Pamir<\/strong> are treated as one region. Two of the three Pamir peaks above 7,000 meters<\/strong> are found here: Ismoil Somoni (Communism) Peak 7,495 m & Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak 7,105 m<\/strong>. The area also hosts the Fedchenko Glacier (71.2 km)<\/strong>\u2014the largest in Central Asia.<\/p>\nThe landscape is defined by mountain ranges running predominantly east to west<\/strong>, connected by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range<\/strong>. Expeditions typically operate from two base-camp areas:<\/p>\n\n- \n
Moskvina Camp (Base Camp) \u2014 4,100 m<\/strong>
Near a small alpine lake and the confluence of the Walter(a)<\/strong> and Moskvina<\/strong> glaciers. This is the primary base for climbing both peaks.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Suloev \/ Fortambek Camp<\/strong>
On the Fortambek plateau opposite the Tramplinniy (\u201cSpringboard\u201d) Glacier<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nBest season to climb<\/h3>\n
The climate is highly variable and the season is short. The best window is typically:
mid-July to August 20<\/strong><\/p>\n
\n![\"Communism](\"https:\/\/climberca.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Communism-Korzhenevskaya-peaks.png\")
<\/p>\n
Peak 1: Communism Peak (Ismoil Somoni Peak) \u2014 7,495 m<\/h2>\nMountain overview and major faces<\/h3>\n
Communism Peak is a dramatic rock-and-ice pyramid<\/strong> with four distinct faces:<\/p>\n\n- \n
East face:<\/strong> first climbed in 1933<\/strong> by Evgenii Abalakov<\/strong>, via a demanding line with complex access along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) Glacier<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
West face:<\/strong> the classic Burevestnik<\/strong> route follows a prominent ridge.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
South face:<\/strong> plunges ~2,000 m<\/strong> toward the Beliaeva Glacier<\/strong>, dominated by the Puso (\u201cPotbelly\u201d)<\/strong> rock wall (600\u2013800 m high, >80\u00b0). Many of the mountain\u2019s hardest lines are here.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
South-west face:<\/strong> first climbed in 1968<\/strong> by E. Mislovskiy<\/strong> (right of the Puso). The direct \u201cPotbelly\u201d line was climbed in 1977<\/strong> by A. Nepomniashkiy<\/strong>. Later routes were opened by K. Valiev<\/strong> and V. Solonnikov<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
The face above the \u201cTramplinniy\u201d Glacier<\/strong> remains unclimbed and is considered virtually impossible due to an extremely dangerous icefall dropping onto the Pamirskoe Plateau.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nThe Pamirskoe Plateau (key acclimatization terrain)<\/h3>\n
The normal route crosses the Pamirskoe Plateau<\/strong>, one of the world\u2019s highest and largest plateaus: approximately 3 km wide<\/strong> and 12 km long<\/strong>, ranging from 4,700 m to 6,300 m<\/strong>. Around 6,000 m<\/strong> lies Parachutistov (\u201cParachutists\u201d)<\/strong>, named after a tragic Soviet military parachuting expedition in 1967<\/strong>.<\/p>\n
\nThe Classic Route: Barodkin Ridge (North) \u2014 5A<\/h2>\n
The normal route begins from the Walter(a) Glacier<\/strong> and leads onto the north face<\/strong>. It was opened in 1968<\/strong> by J. Barodkin<\/strong>, following the ridge that bears his name. Technically it is comparable to classic routes on Lenin Peak<\/strong>, but it is graded 5A<\/strong> primarily due to altitude and exposure.<\/p>\nTypical timeline (after acclimatization): ~1 week from Base Camp to summit<\/h3>\n
Approach from Moskvina Base Camp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Walk south along the Waltera Glacier; after ~1 hour cross it westward.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Climb a steep, rubbly ridge to Camp I \u2014 5,300 m<\/strong>, above a large rock triangle.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
The triangle is often bypassed on the left via a ledge and snow gully\u2014easier, but potentially risky due to overhead icefall.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Higher sections<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Continue along an often ice-covered ridge to the Grudi (\u201cBreasts\u201d) \u2014 6,200 m<\/strong> (two snow domes).
In high season, track is usually clear and fixed ropes may be installed in harder sections.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Traverse to Camp II \u2014 6,200 m<\/strong> (Pamirskoe Plateau).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Cross the plateau and climb a snow ridge to Camp III \u2014 6,400 m<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Continue toward the western shoulder known as Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak \u2014 6,956 m<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Camp IV \u2014 6,900 m<\/strong>, on a snowy col.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nSummit day<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Traverse left beneath summit rocks to the final col (steep + high altitude = crux).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Climb the final ~300 m<\/strong> along the north ridge.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Descent often reaches Camp IV or even Camp III the same day.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Records<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Fastest ascent record (1990): V. Obikhod<\/strong> & E. Klinezkiy<\/strong> \u2014 ~20 hours<\/strong> round trip from base camp, no bivouac (\u22483,300 m vertical gain).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Notable descent (1983): Yugoslav climber A. Stremeiy<\/strong> skied down via the Barodkin Route.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\n![\"Korzhenevskaya](\"https:\/\/climberca.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Pamir-7000m-Expeditions-from-Moskvina-Base-Camp.png\")
<\/p>\n
Peak 2: Korzhenevskaya Peak (Ozodi) \u2014 7,105 m<\/h2>\nBackground and first ascents<\/h3>\n
Originally known as Kul-Santalak<\/strong>, this peak was \u201cdiscovered\u201d in 1910<\/strong> by Russian geographer N. Korzhenevskiy<\/strong>, who wished to name it after his wife Evgenia<\/strong>. First ascent: 1953<\/strong>, A. Agarov<\/strong>, via the northern side. The mountain has multiple complicated lines on its west face.<\/p>\nThe Southern Ridge Route (5A) \u2014 classic and relatively straightforward<\/h3>\n
Opened by V. Tsetkin<\/strong> in 1966<\/strong>, the southern ridge line is often climbed in 3\u20134 days<\/strong> after proper acclimatization.<\/p>\nApproach and camps<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
From Moskvina Base Camp, follow the stream descending from the glacier on the south side.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Turn right and cross the Moskvina Glacier.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Continue along a rock-and-debris ridge until the slope eases.
Camp I option A \u2014 ~5,200 m<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Ascend a steep glacier slope on the south side (rope, crampons, ice axes, ice screws required).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Where the slope eases near the moraine:
Camp I option B \u2014 ~5,300 m<\/strong> (more comfortable, excellent view of the route)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nMiddle section<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Moderate glacier slope (early season snow-covered; later season deep crevasses).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Steeper face to a rocky triangle:
Camp II \u2014 5,800 m<\/strong> (snowy terrace beneath an overhanging rock wall)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nTechnical traverse + ridge<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Move right toward a small col with ~1,000 m<\/strong> ice traverse (often fixed rope).
This is one of the most technical parts of the route.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Arrive at the col on the southern ridge: 6,100 m<\/strong>
(Camp II can be set here too, but space is limited)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Climb a short 50 m rock step<\/strong> with fixed rope onto the snow ridge.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Snow ridge is long and mostly easy, but physically tiring due to many ups and downs.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Crampons are often unnecessary on the final ridge if the snow is soft; ski poles may be sufficient.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Camp III<\/strong> can be established at 6,400 m or 6,700 m<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Descent typically takes about 24 hours<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
The view of Ismoil Somoni Peak<\/strong> from the summit is outstanding.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\nLogistics: Base Camp, Access & Helicopter Flights (2026)<\/h2>\n
Most programs operate through Djirgital<\/strong> for helicopter logistics to Moskvina Base Camp.<\/p>\nHelicopter flights schedule 2026<\/h3>\n\n- \n
July:<\/strong> 14, 27<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
August:<\/strong> 09, 21<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\n2026 Packages & Prices (per person)<\/h2>\n
Complete \u2014 4300 USD<\/strong>
Optimal \u2014 4100 USD<\/strong>
Economy \u2014 3000 USD<\/strong><\/p>\nComplete package (4300 USD) includes<\/h3>\n\n- \n
Meet & greet \/ farewell service at Dushanbe Airport<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Dushanbe hotel (4\u2605)<\/strong> \u2014 2 nights<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Transfer Dushanbe \u2013 Djirgital Airport \u2013 Dushanbe<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Helicopter Djirgital \u2013 Base Camp \u2013 Djirgital<\/strong> (cargo up to 35 kg<\/strong> included; extra USD 5\/kg<\/strong>)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Guesthouse in Djirgital<\/strong> \u2014 1 night<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Base Camp accommodation in a heated lodge<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
High-altitude tent provided (stored at BC; participants carry and set it up)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Meals at Base Camp + high-altitude meals<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Hot showers at BC (free)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Sauna at BC (free, once a week)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Gadget charging + luggage storage at BC<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Route consultation<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
First aid + doctor consultation<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Radios during ascent (1 radio per group of more than 3 people)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Fixed ropes (\u201chandrails\u201d) on the route<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Tajikistan registration (if required)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Environmental fee (natural park)<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Border zone permit<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Optimal package (4100 USD) includes<\/h3>\n
![\"Communism](\"https:\/\/climberca.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Communism_Peak_Korzhenevskaya.png\")
<\/p>\n