![\"Khan](\"https:\/\/kyrgyzstan.climberca.com\/im\/Khan-Tengri-Pobeda\/Khan-Tengri-Routes-a.jpg\" "\\"Khan")
<\/a><\/p>\nKhan Tengri (7,010 m) \u2014 North Side Ascent Program (North Inylchek)<\/h2>\n
Khan Tengri (7,010 m \/ 7,010 m incl. the ice cap) is one of the most iconic and technical objectives of the Tien Shan. It is one of the northernmost 7,000-meter peaks in the range<\/strong>\u2014only Peak Pobeda (Jengish Chokusu, 7,439 m) lies farther north<\/strong>. Khan Tengri is also one of the five USSR \u201cSnow Leopard\u201d (\u0421\u043d\u0435\u0436\u043d\u044b\u0439 \u0431\u0430\u0440\u0441) required 7,000ers<\/strong>, making it a classic goal for high-altitude alpinists pursuing that historic title.<\/p>\nMany strong teams prefer the North Side<\/strong> approach: it is widely considered less avalanche-prone than the South Side<\/strong> due to route character and typical snow deposition patterns on the northern flank (note: objective hazards still exist and must be managed professionally). Importantly, the modern infrastructure at North Inylchek Base Camp<\/strong> now allows service and client support at a level comparable to the South<\/strong>\u2014in terms of logistics, accommodation, communications, medical support, and operational capability.<\/p>\n
\nDates<\/h1>\n
July 25 \u2013 August 14<\/strong> (21 days)
Format:<\/strong> Guided ascent from the North (North Inylchek Glacier)<\/strong><\/p>\n
\nOutline Itinerary (21 Days)<\/h1>\n
Day 1 \u2013 Arrival (Bishkek)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Arrival in Bishkek, group meeting, gear check.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Overnight: hotel.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 2 \u2013 Transfer to Karkara<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Drive Bishkek \u2192 Karkara (approx. 460 km<\/strong>).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Overnight: camp accommodation.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 3 \u2013 Helicopter to Base Camp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Helicopter flight to BC \u201cNorth Inylchek\u201d (4,000 m)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
On arrival: orientation, radio\/communication briefing, medical check-in.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 4 \u2013 Acclimatization \/ Technical Preparation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Glacier travel refresh, rope teams, crevasse rescue, fixed-line protocols.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Packing strategy for upper camps.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 5 \u2013 Acclimatization \/ Technical Preparation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Continued acclimatization and route-specific preparation.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 6 \u2013 Camp 1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Move to Camp 1 (4,200 m)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Establish systems, rest, hydration.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 7 \u2013 Camp 2<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Move to Camp 2 (5,300 m)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Night at altitude, monitoring AMS symptoms.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 8 \u2013 Acclimatization Climb<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Radial ascent to Chapayev Peak area<\/strong> (acclimatization objective).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Return to Camp 2.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 9 \u2013 Descent to Base Camp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Descend to BC (4,000 m)<\/strong> for recovery.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nDay 10 \u2013 Rest \/ Preparation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Rest day, equipment drying, weather and route review, summit kit finalization.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 11 \u2013 Rest \/ Preparation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Additional rest, contingency planning, medical check (as needed).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 12 \u2013 Camp 1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Move again to Camp 1 (4,200 m)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nDay 13 \u2013 Camp 3<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Move to Camp 3<\/strong> (as per route conditions and guide decision; typically a high camp on the upper mountain).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Early dinner, hydration, summit briefing.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 14 \u2013 Summit Day<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Summit attempt: Khan Tengri (7,010 m)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Descent to Camp 3<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nDay 15 \u2013 Descent to Base Camp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Full descent to BC \u201cNorth Inylchek\u201d<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nDays 16\u201318 \u2013 Weather \/ Contingency Reserve<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
3 reserve days<\/strong> for storms, route delays, or additional acclimatization (guide-led decision).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nDay 19 \u2013 Return to Karkara \/ Transfer to Bishkek<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Helicopter North Inylchek BC \u2192 Karkara<\/strong>, then drive to Bishkek.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Overnight: hotel.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 20 \u2013 Bishkek<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Buffer day in Bishkek (rest, contingency, city time).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Day 21 \u2013 Departure<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Transfer to airport, departure.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\nPrice (per person)<\/h1>\n
Full Package: 4,050 USD<\/strong><\/p>\n
\nIncluded in the Price (Full Package)<\/h1>\n
Logistics & transfers<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Meet & assist at Bishkek airport\/railway station (arrival\/departure).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Transfers: airport\/railway station \u2194 hotel \u2194 airport\/railway station.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Ground transfers: Bishkek \u2194 helipad; Bishkek \u2194 Karkara.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Helicopter flights<\/strong> to\/from Base Camp (including cargo transport as per operation policy; stated as \u201cunlimited cargo transportation\u201d<\/strong>).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nAccommodation & meals<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (up to 3 nights<\/strong>).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Meals on the road Bishkek \u2192 Karkara (lunches).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Accommodation and 3 meals\/day at BC \u201cNorth Inylchek\u201d<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Use of camp facilities: hot shower\/sauna (where available), toilets, storage.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Support, safety & admin<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- \n
Guide consultation and operational briefing.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Doctor consultation (BC level).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Registration with rescue services\/squad.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Environmental fee for camp area.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Long-distance radio communication support.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Rental of radios during the ascent (for groups over 3 people<\/strong>).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n- \n
Border zone pass \/ permit support.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
- \n
Registration in Kyrgyzstan (if required).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Additional services included in \u201cFull Package\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n
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