Author Topic: Expedition on peak Razdelnaya (6148 m.)  (Read 2415 times)

enClimberCA

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Expedition on peak Razdelnaya (6148 m.)
« on: June 24, 2017, 02:00:28 PM »
Razdelnaya peak expedition



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Climbing is cool. It's fashionable. More and more people every year want to test their ability in the mountains. But not everyone is equally rich and healthy for such expeditions. One able to attempt the highest mountain peaks of the world, like Everest and Cho Oyu. Others choose in the middle, at the peaks of 7000m +. But even more climbers are attracted by the so-called trekking peaks with a height of 6000m +. We have a large list of climbing programs for such peaks. Most of them are located in the Nepal Himalayas. But in the season of 2019, the top-selling trekking peak climbing program became Razdelnaya peak (6148 m.) package. Why?

The phenomenon of organised camps

In the Himalayas, there are a lot of peaks that attract climbers. But when you look at the climbing program and see the words Base Camp, what does this mean? Does this mean that the Base Camp is an organised place where climbers can expect comfortable accommodation, food, Internet and other facilities? Not at all! Very often, this is just a point, from where the ascent to the top usually begins. Everything that you will need for sleeping, cooking, seating, eating etc., you have to bring with you, or your tour operator must deliver it there for you.

In the Kyrgyz mountains, this is not so. At the foot of Lenin Peak, Khan-Tengri Peak and Ala-Archa, comfortable base camps have been created, moreover in Ala-Archa, the hut can host climbers all year round. But back to Lenin Peak. Arriving in Osh by plane, having one backpack, with your personal belongings, in just a few hours you will find yourself in a comfortable Base Camp. Here, tents with beds are ready for you, food is prepared. The camp has electricity, internet and even a doctor.

Here you can rent most of the things you need to climb. Last season, for the first time, even high-altitude boots were offered for rent.

So, it remains only to climb to the top. But on the way to it there is the Advanced Base Camp almost as comfortable as a BC, and high-altitude camps with pre-installed tents, high-altitude food and kitchen utensils. All this greatly reduces the level of requirements for climbers. Reduces climbing time and program cost. Here's the answer to the question: why last season Peak Razdelnaya appeared among the best-selling destinations.

Our Base Camp is active from the 1st of July till the 2nd of September, 2020.

The Achik-Tash base camp, from which the ascent begins, is situated in the alpine  meadows at an altitude of 3600 meters above the level sea.  Next, Camp № 1, is located on the moraine, at an altitude of 4 400 meters. Both camps offer comfortable conditions for accommodation, and provide an ideal opportunity for rest and recovery after completion of the expedition.

Route Description

From the base camp “Achik-Tash” to “Lukovaya Polana” (Onion field), is a one hour hike along an dirt road, but can be covered in a vehicle. Then a good trail over Travelers’ Pass, continuing at the foot of the slope of the spurs on the right side of Lenin Glacier, arrives at camp № 1 (ABC) after 4 or 5 hours. Camp № 1 is located on the glacial moraine of Lenin Peak. Before reaching the moraine, it is necessary to cross a river.

Usually, it is necessary to leave Camp №1 for Camp №2 an hour before sunrise, in order to avoid the heat and wet snow. Crossing the moraine, coming to the bottom of Northern Slope, it is necessary put on mountaineering boots and for members of the party to tether together. It is important that the length of the rope between mountaineers should not be less than 10 meters. The ascent should be achieved by the Northern sharp slope, to the left of the icefall, avoiding multiple ice crevices. The most difficult and dangerous places should be equipped with a parapet. The upper part of the route goes to the right, before the big ice plateau named “Skovorodka”. It is necessary to cross the plateau from the left to the right. Camp №2, lies at an altitude of 5300 meters, on the upper moraine at the foot of the Northern-West crest. The time from camp №1 to camp № 2 is usually 7-9 hours.

From the camp №2 the route takes a steep ascent to the North-Western crest. Then the route bears left before the sharp summit of Razdelnaya. Camp № 3 is located on the wide dome of the Peak, at the altitude 6100 meters above the sea level. The time from camp № 2 to camp № 3 is usually 4-6 hours.

From the camp №3 we move to the right and ascent the top of peak Razdelnaya 6148 m.

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to the hotel, hotel accommodation.
Arrival at the airport. After retrieving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the “Manas” international airport, you will be met by a representative of the company “Ak-Sai Travel” who  will give you all the necessary documents and permits, after which you will be taken to the 3* hotel located in the center of our capital city – Bishkek.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash.
After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh you will be met by our representative, and further on our transport you will be delivered to the Base Camp “Achik-Tash”.

Day 3. Acclimatization in the base camp, walk to the waterfall.
After the breakfast, group goes on acclimatization walk. Return to camp. Lunch. Rest. Checking of the high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak.
After breakfast, there would be an acclimatize hike to the ridge. Ascent up to the snow, up to a height of 4000 m. There are spectacular views of the Alai valley and the Achik-Tash tract from the top. Return to Base Camp for lunch. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow trek to camp 1.

Day 5. Trek to  the Camp 1 (4400 m).
After breakfast, we go to camp 1. The baggage can be sent by horse (for an additional fee). The path goes through the alpine meadows, through the Puteshestvennikov Pass, and further along the slope of the ridge along the Lenin Glacier. The path takes 4-7 hours.

Day 6. Ice climbing lessons. Climb to Yukhin peak 5200m. Overnight.
Climbing lessons in the morning. Traverse techniques in ice, working with ropes in groups, ascending and descending using fixed ropes, self rescue techniques and rescuing injured climbers. Climbing to Yukhina peak does not require special equipment. Overnight in fixed tent camp at the top.

Day 7. Preparation for the ascent.
In the morning, we exercise on ice. We go through the rules of movement across the glacier, work in a rope team, climb and descent along a fixed rope, skills of self-rescue and rescue of the injured from a glacial fissure. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow ascend to camp 2.

Day 8. Trek to the Camp 2. (5300 m).
We leave at 4 o’clock in the morning. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin Peak. Moving on crampons, in rope teams, crossing glacial cracks. The transition takes 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 9. Ascent to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m).
We leave at 8 am. In some meters a steep rise to the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again a steep ascent to the top of the Razdelnaya Peak. Moving on crampons in rope team. The average transit time is 4-6 hours. Descent to Camp 2. Overnight in camp 2, Self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.
Early in the morning we start descent from Camp 2 to Camp 1. Moving on crampons in rope team. Lunch in the camp 1. After lunch, descend to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Reserve day
Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 12. Transfer from Achik-Tash to Osh. Hotel accommodation.
After breakfast, will be organized transfer from Base Camp to Osh. You will be delivered to hotel. 

Day 13. Flight to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
After early breakfast, our driver will be taken you to the airport for the morning flight from Osh to Bishkek. In Bishkek you will be met and taken to the 3* hotel.

Day 14. Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek.
The driver will take you from the hotel at the necessary time and take you to the airport to the right flight. 

Guaranteed departure dates program

Guaranteed departure date expedition with experienced mountaineering guide.

For you convenience in 2020 we organize four group departures with fixed dates!

Bishkek – Bishkek (14 days)

14/07 - 27/07
24/07 - 06/08
04/08 - 17/08
14/08 - 27/08

Osh – Osh (12 days)

15/07 - 26/07
25/07 - 05/08
05/08 - 16/08
15/08 - 26/08

The cost of program in 2020

- The cost of fixed date program Bishkek – Bishkek in 2020 from 1480 USD/person
- The cost of fixed date program Osh-Osh in 2020 from 1260 USD/person


The price includes services of full package:

Bishkek-Bishkek:

- Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
- Meeting/seeing off at the airport
- Transfer Osh - Base Camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh (according with schedule)
- Transfer BC - Lukovaya valley - BC (according with schedule)
- Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note that local airlines allow only 15 free of charge luggage! Extra kilo costs about 2-3    USD)
- 4 nights at a hotel with breakfast (in Osh and Bishkek)
- Lunch en route to/from BC
- Registration with rescue team
- Ecological fee
- Experienced high altitude guide
- Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5300 m
- Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
- High altitude food

Osh-Osh:

- Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
- Meeting/seeing off at the airport
- Transfer Osh - Base Camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh (according with schedule)
- Transfer BC - Lukovaya valley - BC (according with schedule)
- 2 nights at a hotel with breakfast (in Osh and Bishkek)
- Lunch en route to/from BC
- Registration with rescue team
- Ecological fee
- Experienced high altitude guide
- Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5300 m
- Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
- High altitude food

The cost of packages does not include:

- The cost of Kyrgyz visa.
- International flight.
- All optional deviations from the main itinerary
- SGL hotel accomodation ( extra 40 USD for Osh-Osh package, 60 USD for Bishkek-Bishkek package)
- Beverages and meals not included in main menu (meal in the cities)
- All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
- The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
- The rent of personal mountaineering equipment for ascending

List of required equipment:
1. Backpack - 85 liters
2. Sleeping bag -1
3. Sleeping pad – 1
4. Harness – 1
5. Carbines  - 4
6. Jumar – 1
7. Crampons– 1
8. Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m
9. Ice axe – 1
10. Sun glasses – 1 or 2
11. Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries
12. Ice screw -2
13. Folding knife – 1
14. Down jacket/parka -1
15. Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
16. Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1   17. Thermal underwear – 1 suit
18. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)
19. Polartec gloves -1
20. Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1
21. Warm hat -1
22. Balaclava -1
23. Warm socks -2 pairs
24. Socks
25. Gamashi
26. Sun protection crèam
27. Figure-8 descender - 1
28. Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1
29. Avalanche shovel –1
30. High altitude boots - 1
31. Trekking boots -1

Insurance policy

ATTENTION! To participation in Razdelnaya Peak expedition the purchase of an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY!

Below you can check the list of our requirements to the insurance policy.
1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant . Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.
2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30000,00
3) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified
4) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan
5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan
6) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transportation of the injured" by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the "transportation of the injured" must be at least $ 10000,00 (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)
 
Attention. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to our demands holds by the owner of insurance.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2019, 03:05:45 PM by enClimberCA »