Special offer Lenin Peak 2024
Climb Lenin Peak with Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers.
Duration of the tour: 22 days
Elevation: 7134 m
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering & Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers.
Season: July – August; Base Camp in 2024, will operate between 1st of July and 1st September 2024.
All inclusive GUIDED tours with guaranteed departure dates: Available
The cost of international flights: Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Available at extra cost.
Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us.
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Basic program: 22 days
International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) “Pamir” will be active between 1st of July and 1st September 2024.
Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Pobeda Peak (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelnaya route is practically no technical climbing involved.
IMC “Pamir” is located in the foot of Petrovskiy Peak in Achik-Tash valley near the big river. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From IMC “Pamir” we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).
From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelnaya Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelnaya Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelnaya Peak the angle steeples.
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelnaya Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelnaya Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnaya Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.
From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.
The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.