Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m) | Key Information

• Peak: Khan Tengri — 7,010 m (including ice cap)

• Mountain Range: Tien Shan, Central Asia

• Ascent Route: North Side (North Inylchek Glacier)

• Expedition Dates: July 25 – August 14

• Program Duration: 21 days

• Ascent Style: Guided expedition with fixed camps and acclimatization rotations

• Difficulty: Technical high-altitude climb (ice, snow, mixed terrain)

• Best Season: Late July – mid August

• Significance:

  • One of the northernmost 7,000-meter peaks in the Tien Shan (only Peak Pobeda is further north)

  • One of the five 7,000-meter peaks required for the USSR “Snow Leopard” title

  • Considered one of the most beautiful and iconic peaks of Central Asia

• Why the North Side:

  • Traditionally regarded as less avalanche-prone compared to the South Side

  • More stable route structure with classic alpine climbing character

  • Modern North Inylchek infrastructure providing logistics and services on par with the South Side

• Base Camp: North Inylchek Base Camp — 4,000 m

• Summit Height: 7,010 m

• Maximum Altitude: 7,010 m

• Guiding & Safety:

  • Professional high-altitude guides

  • Medical consultation at Base Camp

  • Registration with rescue services

  • Radio communication during the ascent

• Logistics:

  • Helicopter access to/from Base Camp

  • Full board at Base Camp and high-altitude camps

  • Group climbing equipment and high-altitude tents provided

• Required Experience:

  • Previous experience on 6,000–7,000 m peaks

  • Confident use of crampons, ice axe, rope travel, and fixed lines

  • Good physical condition and high-altitude tolerance

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Khan Tengri (7,010 m) — North Side Ascent Program (North Inylchek)

Khan Tengri (7,010 m / 7,010 m incl. the ice cap) is one of the most iconic and technical objectives of the Tien Shan. It is one of the northernmost 7,000-meter peaks in the range—only Peak Pobeda (Jengish Chokusu, 7,439 m) lies farther north. Khan Tengri is also one of the five USSR “Snow Leopard” (Снежный барс) required 7,000ers, making it a classic goal for high-altitude alpinists pursuing that historic title.

Many strong teams prefer the North Side approach: it is widely considered less avalanche-prone than the South Side due to route character and typical snow deposition patterns on the northern flank (note: objective hazards still exist and must be managed professionally). Importantly, the modern infrastructure at North Inylchek Base Camp now allows service and client support at a level comparable to the South—in terms of logistics, accommodation, communications, medical support, and operational capability.

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Dates

July 25 – August 14 (21 days)
Format: Guided ascent from the North (North Inylchek Glacier)

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Outline Itinerary (21 Days)

Day 1 – Arrival (Bishkek)

• Arrival in Bishkek, group meeting, gear check.

• Overnight: hotel.

Day 2 – Transfer to Karkara

• Drive Bishkek → Karkara (approx. 460 km).

• Overnight: camp accommodation.

Day 3 – Helicopter to Base Camp

• Helicopter flight to BC “North Inylchek” (4,000 m).

• On arrival: orientation, radio/communication briefing, medical check-in.

Day 4 – Acclimatization / Technical Preparation

• Glacier travel refresh, rope teams, crevasse rescue, fixed-line protocols.

• Packing strategy for upper camps.

Day 5 – Acclimatization / Technical Preparation

• Continued acclimatization and route-specific preparation.

Day 6 – Camp 1

• Move to Camp 1 (4,200 m).

• Establish systems, rest, hydration.

Day 7 – Camp 2

• Move to Camp 2 (5,300 m).

• Night at altitude, monitoring AMS symptoms.

Day 8 – Acclimatization Climb

• Radial ascent to Chapayev Peak area (acclimatization objective).

• Return to Camp 2.

Day 9 – Descent to Base Camp

• Descend to BC (4,000 m) for recovery.

Day 10 – Rest / Preparation

• Rest day, equipment drying, weather and route review, summit kit finalization.

Day 11 – Rest / Preparation

• Additional rest, contingency planning, medical check (as needed).

Day 12 – Camp 1

• Move again to Camp 1 (4,200 m).

Day 13 – Camp 3

• Move to Camp 3 (as per route conditions and guide decision; typically a high camp on the upper mountain).

• Early dinner, hydration, summit briefing.

Day 14 – Summit Day

• Summit attempt: Khan Tengri (7,010 m).

• Descent to Camp 3.

Day 15 – Descent to Base Camp

• Full descent to BC “North Inylchek”.

Days 16–18 – Weather / Contingency Reserve

• 3 reserve days for storms, route delays, or additional acclimatization (guide-led decision).

Day 19 – Return to Karkara / Transfer to Bishkek

• Helicopter North Inylchek BC → Karkara, then drive to Bishkek.

• Overnight: hotel.

Day 20 – Bishkek

• Buffer day in Bishkek (rest, contingency, city time).

Day 21 – Departure

• Transfer to airport, departure.

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Price (per person)

Full Package: 4,050 USD

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Included in the Price (Full Package)

Logistics & transfers

• Meet & assist at Bishkek airport/railway station (arrival/departure).

• Transfers: airport/railway station ↔ hotel ↔ airport/railway station.

• Ground transfers: Bishkek ↔ helipad; Bishkek ↔ Karkara.

• Helicopter flights to/from Base Camp (including cargo transport as per operation policy; stated as “unlimited cargo transportation”).

Accommodation & meals

• Hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (up to 3 nights).

• Meals on the road Bishkek → Karkara (lunches).

• Accommodation and 3 meals/day at BC “North Inylchek”.

• Use of camp facilities: hot shower/sauna (where available), toilets, storage.

Support, safety & admin

• Guide consultation and operational briefing.

• Doctor consultation (BC level).

• Registration with rescue services/squad.

• Environmental fee for camp area.

• Long-distance radio communication support.

• Rental of radios during the ascent (for groups over 3 people).

• Border zone pass / permit support.

• Registration in Kyrgyzstan (if required).

Additional services included in “Full Package”

• Professional guiding ratio

  • 1–3 climbers: 1 guide

  • 4–6 climbers: 1 guide + 1 assistant guide

  • 7–10 climbers: 1 guide + 2 assistant guides

• High-altitude tents set up (2 people per tent).

• Group equipment (as required): ropes, gas, burners, cook sets.

• High-altitude food provisions.

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Not Included

• Kyrgyz visa (if applicable).

• International flights.

• Climbing permit (if required by regulations/operator).

• Single room supplement in Bishkek.

• Early hotel check-in.

• Deviations from the main route / custom logistics.

• Drinks and meals outside the planned menu.

• Personal expenses (excess baggage, room service, medical costs, insurance, etc.).

• Personal equipment rental.

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Required Equipment (Recommended Minimum)

Footwear

• High-altitude double boots (1 pair)

• Trekking boots / approach shoes (1 pair)

• Overboots (optional / as conditions require)

Clothing

• Down jacket/parka (1)

• Gore-Tex jacket & pants (1 set)

• Fleece/Polartec jacket & pants (1 set)

• Thermal underwear (1 set)

• Warm hat (1)

• Balaclava (1)

• Gloves: Polartec gloves (1 pair), overmitts (1 pair) + windproof gloves (1 pair)

• Warm socks (2 pairs) + additional socks

Sleep & packs

• Sleeping bag (expedition rating)

• Sleeping pad

• Backpack ~85 L

Technical gear

• Harness (1)

• Carabiners (4)

• Ice screws (2)

• Ascender/Jumar (1)

• Figure-8 descender (1)

• Crampons (1 pair)

• Cord / prusik (approx. 3 m)

• Ice axe (1)

• Trekking poles (1 pair)

• Helmet (1)

Personal essentials

• Glacier sunglasses (1–2)

• Headlamp + spare batteries

• Sunscreen

• Folding knife

• Thermos

• Cup/mug/spoon

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Insurance Requirements (Mandatory)

• The operator does not act as an insurance assistant/intermediary.

• Coverage limit: minimum 30,000 USD.

• Occupation/sport field must state: Mountaineering.

• Country of stay: Kyrgyzstan.

• Policy dates must fully match your stay dates in Kyrgyzstan.

• Must include first aid and helicopter evacuation/transport (verify this explicitly in the policy wording).

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Professional Notes (for experienced climbers)

• Final camp locations, summit day timing, and rotation strategy may be adjusted by the guide team based on weather windows, route conditions, and team acclimatization.

• The North Inylchek environment is glaciated and complex: expect crevasse navigation, fixed lines, and sustained cold exposure, especially during summit push.