Ala Archa Mountaineering School
Key Information:
Tour Duration: 2 – 7 day(s)
Group Size: 1 – 6 people
Destination: Kyrgyzstan
Category: Rock climbing and mountaineering
Specialty: Ice, Mountain, Rock
Min Price: 500 USD per person
Max Price: 970 USD per person
Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us.
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The Ala Archa National Park is an alpine national park in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, established in 1976 and located approximately 40 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. The park, which includes the gorge of the Ala-Archa River and the mountains surrounding it, is a popular destination point for weekend picnicers, hikers, horse trekkers, skiers as well as mountain climbers looking for challenging ice, rock and mixed routes. The park is open year round, although the most popular season is late summer and early fall. Every May 1st, the Alpinada festival sees hundreds of people camp out in the valley and climb Peak Komsomolets.
In Kyrgyz, the archa, which gives the park its name, is a bright or many-colored juniper which the Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits. However, the archa is not supposed to be planted near the home, because it is believed gradually to sap the energy from human beings living close-by.
The park covers about 200 square kilometers, and its altitude ranges from about 1,500 meters at the entrance to a maximum of 4,895 meters at Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski, the highest peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-tau range of the Tian Shan. There are more than 20 small and large glaciers and some 50 mountain peaks within the park. Two smaller rivers, the Adygene and the Ak-Sai, originate from these glaciers’ melting waters. The Adygene gorge is a beautifully wooded valley, with waterfalls, springs and abundant trout. A small reservoir on the Kargay-Bulak river was built to study the Amu Darya trout. Other wildlife includes the very rare snow leopard (in Kyrgyz: “ilbirs”) on the alpine meadows and snowfields above 2,500 m elevation, wild goats, roe deer and marmots.
There is a nominal fee for entering the park. Past the gate the road continues 12 km to a small collection of buildings, including one newly renovated lodge. At the end of the road, up a trail to the left (East), lies the Ak-Sai Glacier. The region’s most famous peaks rise from the Ak-Sai glacier, including Korona (4860m) and Free Korea (4740m). To the west of Ala Archa Valley is a trail to the Adygene valley where a climbers’ cemetery is located. A third main trail continues down the center of the Ala-Archa valley for 10 km to an old, now abandoned, ski area and numerous other 4000m peaks.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ala_Archa_National_Park
In Ala-Archa we offer following routes:
Svobodnaya (Free) (6510 m) peak. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. South face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group from West side
1 st tower of Korona (Crown)
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“Mountaineering school” in Ala-Archa National Park
Novice climber (7-days program)
Day 1- Transfer to Ala-Archa gorge, trek to Ak-Sai canyon, accommodation in “Light House”.
The survey course in Modern equipment and its applying and Knots.
Day 2- Rock climbing training: Types of belay survey; climbing with top roping. Survey course in Dangers in mountains and Weather.
Day 3- Ice climbing training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crevices.
Day 4- Ascent (F).
Day 5- Rock climbing training: Methods of belay; use the local stations; multi pitches; collective belay.
Day 6- Ascent (PD).
Day 7- Trek down, transfer to Bishkek.
Price
The price of the program is 970 USD per person.
The price includes:
• transportation Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or outdoor training – lunch-box will be given);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.
The price does not include:
• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment
Equipment needed
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.
Optional two-days programs of “Novice climber”
Option 1.
Day 1: Chunkurchak canyon.
The survey course in Modern equipment and its applying and Knots.
Rock climbing training: Types of belay; climbing with top type of belay.
Day 2: Chunkurchak canyon.
Rock climbing training: Methods of belay; use the local stations; multi pitches; collective belay.
Equipment: Backpack 30 liters; belay system; helmet; shoes for climbing; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; belay; descender; auxiliary rope – 5 meters.
Option 2.
Day 1: Climbing to “Light House”.
The survey course in Modern equipment and its applying and Knots.
Day 2: Ice climbing training: Moving along the snow and ice relief using crampons. Moving along the close glacier in tied. Organization of belay on the snow and ice relief. Climbing and descending on the ice slope in tied. Rescue from the crack.
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Option 3.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Survey course in Dangers in mountains and Weather.
Day 2. Ascension (AD).
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Intermediate Climber (7-days program)
Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. The survey course in planning of climbing & Radio traffic.
Day 2 – Rock climbing: Interaction ligaments on the rocky relief. The use of double rope.
Day 3 – Ascension (PD).
Day 4 – The survey course in Moving of injured person on the difficult relief.
Day 5 – Ascension (AD-)
Day 6 – Ascension (Pd+)
Day 7 – Trek down, transfer to Bishkek.
Price
The price of the program is 970 USD per person.
The price includes:
• transport Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);advance2
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.
The price does not include:
• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment
Equipment needed
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.
Optional two-days programs of “Intermediate climber”
Option 1.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”. The survey course in Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascent (PD).
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Option 2.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”. The survey course in Transportation the victim on complex terrain forces a small group.
Day 2. Ascent (AD-).
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Option 3.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”. Ice climbing. The survey course in The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascent (AD).
Equipment: : Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Advanced Climber (7-days program)
Day 1 – Trek to “Light House”. The survey course in Rescue work in the mountains. Role of the Leader.
Day 2 – The survey course in Transportation the victim on complex terrain forces a small group.
Day 3 – Ascension Ratseka Peak (3900m). D
Day 4 – The survey course in Interaction ligaments. Salvation from cracks.
Day 5 – Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810 m.) D
Day 6 – Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m). D
Day 7 – Trek down, transfer to Bishkek.
Price
The price of the program is 970 USD per person.
The price includes:
• transport Bishkek – Ala-Archa – Bishkek;
• the organization of mountain ascents (rescue squad, mountain instructor);advance2
• forming certificate;
• accommodation in “Light House” hut (6 nights);
• full board (3 times per day; in the days of climbing or afternoon lessons given a lunch-box);
• enter fee;
• group equipment: rope, rock and ice pitons (all equipment on the entry level).
• radio communications during the climbing;
• first aid kit and first aid.
The price does not include:
• International flight to Bishkek and back;
• Food & accommodation in Bishkek
• Personal climbing equipment
Equipment needed
Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; harness; helmet; carabine with lock – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; cordelette – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 0,5 liter; lantern.
Optional two-days programs of “Advanced climber”
Option 1.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
The survey course in Rescue work in the mountains.
Day 2. Ascension to the Ratseka Peak(3900m.) D.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Option 2.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Lecture: The survey course in Transportation the victim on complex terrain forces a small group.
Day 2. Ascension to the Korona Peak (4810m.) D.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.
Option 3.
Day 1. Climbing to “Light House”.
Ice climbing. The survey course in The interaction of ligaments. Salvation of the cracks.
Day 2. Ascension to the Izyskatel Peak (3900 m.) D.
Equipment: Backpack 50 liters; sleeping bag; warm cloth; gloves; hat; sunscreen glasses; shoes for the crampons; belay system; helmet; carabine with clutch – 5 pieces; descender; crampons; ice axe; auxiliary rope – 5 meters; telescopic stick; flask – 1 liter; lantern.