Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) – Expedition 2024

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“North Inylchek” and “South Inylchek” Base Camps will be active between 10th of July and 25st of August in 2024.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.

Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40 degees, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Basic program – 21 days

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2. Drive Bishkek – Karkara ( 460 km ), accommodation at the Camp.
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek”/ “North Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 6. Camp № 1 .
Day 7. Camp № 2 .
Day 8. Camp № 3 .
Day 9. Descend to BC
Day 10. Day of rest and preparation.
Day 11. Day of rest and preparation.
Day 12. Camp № 1.
Day 13. Camp № 3.
Day 14. Ascent of the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp № 3.
Day 15. Descent to the base camp.
Day 16. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 17. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 18. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
Day 20. Day in Bishkek.
Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2024:

July ——-
August ——-

Prices

Cost of basic package in 2024: 2900 USD per person
Cost of econom package in 2024: 1700 USD per person

Basic package includes:

Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek;
Transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel – airport in Bishkek;
Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
Helicopter flight to BC and back(it’s permitted only 40 kg per person, extra kilo costs 5 USD/kg);
Unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;
Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast (2 nights);
Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC;
Free usage of hot sauna, toilet at BC;
Consultancy service of local guide;
Consultancy of doctor;
Registration with local Rescue team;
Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
Usage of long-distance radio service;
Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
Usage of fixed ropes on the route;
Frontier zone permit;
Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan;

Econom package includes:

Helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 5 USD/kg);
Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;
Free usage of infrastructure at BC;
Consultancy service of local guide;
Consultancy of doctor;
Registration with local Rescue team;
Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;
Usage of long-distance radio service;
Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
Usage of fixed ropes on the route;
Frontier zone permit;
Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan;

Additional possibilities

Descent to South Inylchek (for clients who buy Khan Tengri from the North side) – 200 USD
Fly to Karkara for the rest (few days) and fly back to Base Camp – 500 USD

The cost for both packages does not include:

The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
International flight;
All optional deviations from the main itinerary;
Beverages and meals not included in main menu;
All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);
The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;

Personal equipment:

Backpack – 85 liters, Sleeping bag -1, Sleeping pad – 1, Helmet -1, Harness – 1, Carbines – 4, Jumar – 1, Crampons– 1, Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m, Ice axe – 1, Sun glasses – 1 or 2, Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries, Ice screw -2, Folding knife – 1, Down jacket/parka -1, Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit, Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1, Thermal underwear – 1 suit, Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants), Polartec gloves -1, Overmitts – 1.+ windproof -1, Warm hat -1, Balaclava -1, Warm socks -2 pairs, Socks, Gamashi, Sun protection crèam, Figure-8 descender – 1, Telescopic Sticks (poles). – 1, Avalanche shovel –1, High altitude boots – 1, Trekking boots -1.

Insurance information

Dear guests,
Please pay attention on the fact of your security in case of any accidents if you purchase insurance policy. Responsibility for the reliability of the insurance company and for the accordance of insurance policy to our demands holds by the owner of insurance. We imperatively recommend to control next information in the insurance policy:

1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant

2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30.000

3) In the field “occupation” (or “sports practice”) “Mountaineering” must be notified

4) As Country of stay – Kyrgyzstan

5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan

6) The insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transport of affected by helicopter if necessary” (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

Note:
Before the formalization of the policy, make sure which assistant operates the insurance company in question.

Please remember: we do not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved.

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