Communism & Korzhenevskaya peaks

Pamir 7,000m Expeditions from Moskvina Base Camp — 2026 Programs, Routes & Prices

If you are looking for a true 7,000-meter mountaineering challenge in Central Asia, the Central Pamir (Moskvina area) offers one of the most iconic pairings on Earth: Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak, 7,495 m) and Korzhenevskaya Peak (also known as Peak Ozodi, 7,105 m). Standing opposite each other above the Pamirskoe Plateau, these two giants deliver everything a high-altitude climber wants: classic routes, severe altitude, big glaciers, and expedition-style base camp logistics.

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium
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• your.climberca@ya.ru
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Why the Central Pamir (Moskvina) Region is Unique

Traditionally, the central and northwestern Pamir are treated as one region. Two of the three Pamir peaks above 7,000 meters are found here: Ismoil Somoni (Communism) Peak 7,495 m & Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak 7,105 m. The area also hosts the Fedchenko Glacier (71.2 km)—the largest in Central Asia.

The landscape is defined by mountain ranges running predominantly east to west, connected by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. Expeditions typically operate from two base-camp areas:

• Moskvina Camp (Base Camp) — 4,100 m
  Near a small alpine lake and the confluence of the Walter(a) and Moskvina glaciers. This is the primary base for climbing both peaks.

• Suloev / Fortambek Camp
  On the Fortambek plateau opposite the Tramplinniy (“Springboard”) Glacier.

Best season to climb

The climate is highly variable and the season is short. The best window is typically:
mid-July to August 20

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Peak 1: Communism Peak (Ismoil Somoni Peak) — 7,495 m

Mountain overview and major faces

Communism Peak is a dramatic rock-and-ice pyramid with four distinct faces:

• East face: first climbed in 1933 by Evgenii Abalakov, via a demanding line with complex access along the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) Glacier.

• West face: the classic Burevestnik route follows a prominent ridge.

• South face: plunges ~2,000 m toward the Beliaeva Glacier, dominated by the Puso (“Potbelly”) rock wall (600–800 m high, >80°). Many of the mountain’s hardest lines are here.

• South-west face: first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy (right of the Puso). The direct “Potbelly” line was climbed in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later routes were opened by K. Valiev and V. Solonnikov.

• The face above the “Tramplinniy” Glacier remains unclimbed and is considered virtually impossible due to an extremely dangerous icefall dropping onto the Pamirskoe Plateau.

The Pamirskoe Plateau (key acclimatization terrain)

The normal route crosses the Pamirskoe Plateau, one of the world’s highest and largest plateaus: approximately 3 km wide and 12 km long, ranging from 4,700 m to 6,300 m. Around 6,000 m lies Parachutistov (“Parachutists”), named after a tragic Soviet military parachuting expedition in 1967.

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The Classic Route: Barodkin Ridge (North) — 5A

The normal route begins from the Walter(a) Glacier and leads onto the north face. It was opened in 1968 by J. Barodkin, following the ridge that bears his name. Technically it is comparable to classic routes on Lenin Peak, but it is graded 5A primarily due to altitude and exposure.

Typical timeline (after acclimatization): ~1 week from Base Camp to summit

Approach from Moskvina Base Camp

• Walk south along the Waltera Glacier; after ~1 hour cross it westward.

• Climb a steep, rubbly ridge to Camp I — 5,300 m, above a large rock triangle.

• The triangle is often bypassed on the left via a ledge and snow gully—easier, but potentially risky due to overhead icefall.

Higher sections

• Continue along an often ice-covered ridge to the Grudi (“Breasts”) — 6,200 m (two snow domes).
  In high season, track is usually clear and fixed ropes may be installed in harder sections.

• Traverse to Camp II — 6,200 m (Pamirskoe Plateau).

• Cross the plateau and climb a snow ridge to Camp III — 6,400 m.

• Continue toward the western shoulder known as Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak — 6,956 m.

• Camp IV — 6,900 m, on a snowy col.

Summit day

• Traverse left beneath summit rocks to the final col (steep + high altitude = crux).

• Climb the final ~300 m along the north ridge.

• Descent often reaches Camp IV or even Camp III the same day.

Records

• Fastest ascent record (1990): V. Obikhod & E. Klinezkiy — ~20 hours round trip from base camp, no bivouac (≈3,300 m vertical gain).

• Notable descent (1983): Yugoslav climber A. Stremeiy skied down via the Barodkin Route.

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Peak 2: Korzhenevskaya Peak (Ozodi) — 7,105 m

Background and first ascents

Originally known as Kul-Santalak, this peak was “discovered” in 1910 by Russian geographer N. Korzhenevskiy, who wished to name it after his wife Evgenia. First ascent: 1953, A. Agarov, via the northern side. The mountain has multiple complicated lines on its west face.

The Southern Ridge Route (5A) — classic and relatively straightforward

Opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966, the southern ridge line is often climbed in 3–4 days after proper acclimatization.

Approach and camps

• From Moskvina Base Camp, follow the stream descending from the glacier on the south side.

• Turn right and cross the Moskvina Glacier.

• Continue along a rock-and-debris ridge until the slope eases.
  Camp I option A — ~5,200 m

• Ascend a steep glacier slope on the south side (rope, crampons, ice axes, ice screws required).

• Where the slope eases near the moraine:
  Camp I option B — ~5,300 m (more comfortable, excellent view of the route)

Middle section

• Moderate glacier slope (early season snow-covered; later season deep crevasses).

• Steeper face to a rocky triangle:
  Camp II — 5,800 m (snowy terrace beneath an overhanging rock wall)

Technical traverse + ridge

• Move right toward a small col with ~1,000 m ice traverse (often fixed rope).
  This is one of the most technical parts of the route.

• Arrive at the col on the southern ridge: 6,100 m
  (Camp II can be set here too, but space is limited)

• Climb a short 50 m rock step with fixed rope onto the snow ridge.

• Snow ridge is long and mostly easy, but physically tiring due to many ups and downs.

• Crampons are often unnecessary on the final ridge if the snow is soft; ski poles may be sufficient.

• Camp III can be established at 6,400 m or 6,700 m.

• Descent typically takes about 24 hours.

• The view of Ismoil Somoni Peak from the summit is outstanding.

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Logistics: Base Camp, Access & Helicopter Flights (2026)

Most programs operate through Djirgital for helicopter logistics to Moskvina Base Camp.

Helicopter flights schedule 2026

• July: 14, 27

• August: 09, 21

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2026 Packages & Prices (per person)

Complete — 4300 USD
Optimal — 4100 USD
Economy — 3000 USD

Complete package (4300 USD) includes

• Meet & greet / farewell service at Dushanbe Airport

• Dushanbe hotel (4★) — 2 nights

• Transfer Dushanbe – Djirgital Airport – Dushanbe

• Helicopter Djirgital – Base Camp – Djirgital (cargo up to 35 kg included; extra USD 5/kg)

• Guesthouse in Djirgital — 1 night

• Base Camp accommodation in a heated lodge

• High-altitude tent provided (stored at BC; participants carry and set it up)

• Meals at Base Camp + high-altitude meals

• Hot showers at BC (free)

• Sauna at BC (free, once a week)

• Gadget charging + luggage storage at BC

• Route consultation

• First aid + doctor consultation

• Radios during ascent (1 radio per group of more than 3 people)

• Fixed ropes (“handrails”) on the route

• Tajikistan registration (if required)

• Environmental fee (natural park)

• Border zone permit

Optimal package (4100 USD) includes

• Transfer Dushanbe – Djirgital Airport – Dushanbe (meeting point announced separately)

• Helicopter Djirgital – Base Camp – Djirgital (cargo up to 30 kg included; extra USD 5/kg)

• Guesthouse in Djirgital — 1 night

• Base Camp accommodation in tents

• High-altitude tent provided (stored at BC; participants carry and set it up)

• Meals at Base Camp + high-altitude meals

• Hot showers (free)

• Gadget charging + luggage storage

• Route consultation

• First aid + doctor consultation

• Radios (1 per group >3)

• Fixed ropes on the route

• Registration (if required)

• Environmental fee

• Border zone permit

Economy package (3000 USD) includes

• Transfer Dushanbe – Djirgital Airport – Dushanbe (meeting point announced separately)

• Guesthouse in Djirgital — 1 night

• Helicopter Djirgital – Base Camp – Djirgital (cargo up to 25 kg included; extra USD 5/kg)

• Base Camp stay in your own tents

• Route consultation

• First aid + doctor consultation

• Hot showers (free)

• Gadget charging + luggage storage

• Radios (1 per group >3)

• Fixed ropes on the route

• Registration (if required)

• Environmental fee

• Border zone permit

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Not included (all packages)

• Visa processing

• International flights

• Any deviations from the main itinerary

• Meals in Dushanbe and Djirgital

• Single room supplement

• Early check-in / late check-out

• Drinks/meals not included in the standard menu

• Personal expenses (excess baggage, room service, medical expenses, etc.)

• Insurance policy

• Registration with rescue service

• Porter services

• Equipment rental

• Gas canisters

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Additional Base Camp Services (optional)

Guide services

• Peak Ozodi (Korzhenevskaya) program — USD 2,500 per program (1 guide / up to 3 clients)

• Peak Communism program — USD 2,900 per program (1 guide / up to 3 clients)

• Daily guiding:

  • Ozodi — USD 200/day

  • Ismoil Somoni — USD 250/day

• Summit push:

  • Ozodi — USD 1,400

  • Ismoil Somoni — USD 2,000

Porter services (per kg)

• 4,200–5,300 m: USD 12/kg

• 5,300–5,800 m: USD 15/kg

• 5,800–6,300 m: USD 20/kg

Other services

• Gas canisters (new): 230 g — USD 15, 440 g — USD 25

• High-altitude tent rental — USD 80/program

• Internet — USD 5/hour

• Tent accommodation at Moskvina BC — USD 25/tent/day

• Meals at BC: breakfast USD 20, lunch USD 25, dinner USD 25

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FAQ

When is the best time to climb Ismoil Somoni and Korzhenevskaya?

The most reliable window is typically mid-July to August 20, when the climbing season is at its best.

Where is the main base camp for both peaks?

Most climbers operate from Moskvina Base Camp (4,100 m) in the central Pamir.

How difficult are the normal routes?

Both peaks are commonly listed as 5A, largely due to high altitude, despite some sections being technically moderate on the normal lines.

How long does the ascent take?

After acclimatization, the Ismoil Somoni normal route typically takes about one week from base camp.
Korzhenevskaya’s southern ridge route is often completed in 3–4 days after acclimatization.

What is the helicopter cargo allowance?

• Complete: 35 kg included

• Optimal: 30 kg included

• Economy: 25 kg included
  Excess baggage: USD 5 per kg

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Book Your 2026 Pamir Expedition

For detailed planning, dates, and booking, contact:

ClimberCA International Consortium
Telegram: @ClimberCA
WhatsApp/Viber: +7966 0655344
Email: your@climberca.com