Communism & Korzhenevskaya peaks

Post author:Dima
Post published:December 13, 2024
Post category:7000+ peaks expeditions Climbing mountaineering
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Communism & Korzhenevskaya peaks

Восхождение на пики Коммунизма и Корженевской

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us
+7771 4674193 – telegram; +7966 0655344 – whatsapp/viber
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area – Mt. Communism (7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortambek glacier points northward, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August 20.

Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism (7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatization as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.
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Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m) – Expedition 2025

Post author:Dima
Post published:December 13, 2024
Post category:7000+ peaks expeditions Climbing mountaineering
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– This information in Russian

– Guided Khan-Tengri Peak expedition – Special offer & fixed dates 2025

– Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m)

– Khan-Tengri Peak North to South Expedition

– Acclimatization trek from «At-Jailoo» 2500m to BC «South Inylchek» 4100m + mountaineering program

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us
Telegram – https://t.me/ClimberCA
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

If you book this tour through us, we guarantee you accurate and professional fulfillment of all obligations, as well as attentive individual approach to each client.

Availability: 5th of July – 30st of August.

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as ‘The Mountains of Heaven’.

Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed – all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route – from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40 degees, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

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Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak

Post author:Dima
Post published:December 13, 2024
Post category:7000+ peaks expeditions Climbing mountaineering
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Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak

More info in Russian

Key information:

Duration of the tour: 20 days
The number of climbers in the group: 2-15
Elevation: 7134 m
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering
Season: 1-st of July – 31th of August.
All inclusive GUIDED tours with guaranteed departure dates: Available
Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers: Available
The cost of international flights: Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Available at extra cost.
The development of the tour in accordance with customer’s requirements: Yes. Please note that we do not provide border permit without buying package.

Transpot schedule on 2025:

Osh-BC-Osh
June 27,29
July 1,3,5,7,9,11,13,14,15,16,17,19,20,21,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,31
August 2,3,5,6,7,8,10,11,13,14,15,17,18,20,22,23,24,26,28,29,31

Please, write the date of your intended arrival at Lenin BC in your application form, and also the date of your return to Osh

We provide group transfers staritng with 5 passengers in number. In case if you cannot apply for fixed dates of arrival/departures, you still have the option of requesting an individual transfer at additional charge

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us
Telegram – https://t.me/ClimberCA
WhatsApp / Viber +7966 065-53-44
e-mail – your@climberca.com
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

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Special offer Lenin Peak 2025

Post author:Dima
Post published:December 13, 2024
Post category:7000+ peaks expeditions Climbing mountaineering
Post comments:0 Comments

Special offer Lenin Peak 2025

Climb Lenin Peak with Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers.

More info in Russian

Key information:

Duration of the tour: 22 days
Elevation: 7134 m
Location: Kyrgyzstan
Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E
Peculiarity: High altitude climbing, mountaineering & Maximum comfortable packs, ideal for entry-level climbers.
Season: July – August; Base Camp in 2025, will operate between 1st of July and 1st September 2025.
All inclusive GUIDED tours with guaranteed departure dates: Available
The cost of international flights: Not included
The cost of local flight: Included (In Bishkek – Bishkek packages only)
The cost of personal insurance: Not included
Personal equipment: Available at extra cost.

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium. About Us.
https://t.me/ClimberCA – telegram; +7966 065-53-44 – whatsapp/viber
e-mail – your.climberca@ya.ru
Note: ClimberCA offers to you the best service & the firm prices of all kind of services we offer on our web-pages. Some services, which we offer to you, are truly unexampled.

Basic program: 22 days

International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) “Pamir” will be active between 1st of July and 1st September 2025.
Situated in the Pamirs on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, close to the borders with China and Afghanistan, Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Pobeda Peak (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelnaya route is practically no technical climbing involved.

Route Description

IMC “Pamir” is located in the foot of Petrovskiy Peak in Achik-Tash valley near the big river. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From IMC “Pamir” we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4400 m).
From camp 1 at 4400 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelnaya Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelnaya Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelnaya Peak the angle steeples.

The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelnaya Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelnaya Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnaya Pass at 6000 meters. It is here that we will make camp 3.

From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.

The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

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