Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m)

Khan-Tengri peak

Khan-Tengri Peak North Side Expedition (7010 m) | Key Information

  • Peak: Khan Tengri — 7,010 m (including ice cap)

  • Mountain Range: Tien Shan, Central Asia

  • Ascent Route: North Side (North Inylchek Glacier)

  • Expedition Dates: July 25 – August 14

  • Program Duration: 21 days

  • Ascent Style: Guided expedition with fixed camps and acclimatization rotations

  • Difficulty: Technical high-altitude climb (ice, snow, mixed terrain)

  • Best Season: Late July – mid August

  • Significance:

    • One of the northernmost 7,000-meter peaks in the Tien Shan (only Peak Pobeda is further north)

    • One of the five 7,000-meter peaks required for the USSR “Snow Leopard” title

    • Considered one of the most beautiful and iconic peaks of Central Asia

  • Why the North Side:

    • Traditionally regarded as less avalanche-prone compared to the South Side

    • More stable route structure with classic alpine climbing character

    • Modern North Inylchek infrastructure providing logistics and services on par with the South Side

  • Base Camp: North Inylchek Base Camp — 4,000 m

  • Summit Height: 7,010 m

  • Maximum Altitude: 7,010 m

  • Guiding & Safety:

    • Professional high-altitude guides

    • Medical consultation at Base Camp

    • Registration with rescue services

    • Radio communication during the ascent

  • Logistics:

    • Helicopter access to/from Base Camp

    • Full board at Base Camp and high-altitude camps

    • Group climbing equipment and high-altitude tents provided

  • Required Experience:

    • Previous experience on 6,000–7,000 m peaks

    • Confident use of crampons, ice axe, rope travel, and fixed lines

    • Good physical condition and high-altitude tolerance

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