Muztagh Ata 7546 m Expedition 2023

Muztagh Ata 7546 m Expedition 2023

Muztagh Ata Xinjiang China
Photo appreciation:

Guaranteed departure date expedition “Muztagh Ata peak 2023”
28.06 – 22.07.2023
See also: Восхождении на пик Музтаг-Ата (7546 м)
and Muztagh Ata 7545M Expedition Torugart-Torugart

Program: Bishkek – Bishkek (you may join in Kashgar)

Duration: 25 days

Location: Xinjiang, China, Asia

Bishkek – Bishkek 3200 USD/pax
Kashgar – Kashgar 2950 USD/pax

Supplier of services: ClimberCA International Consortium About Us
Contacts: – telegram
+7966 065-53-44 – whatsapp/viber
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Route: Bishkek – Naryn – Torugart pass (Chinese border) – Kashgar – Subashi – Base camp of Muztagh Ata peak – climbing – Kashgar – Torugart pass – Naryn – Bishkek

Program: Bishkek – Bishkek

Day 1.

Arrival in Bishkek. Rest in the hotel. In afternoon transfer to Naryn. Accommodation in Guest House or Yurt camp.

Day 2.

Drive to the Torugart Pass, crossing Kyrgyzstan-China border; meeting your guide from China. Transfer tp Kashgar, 3 hours; hotel accommodation.

Day 3.

Kashgar/Subashi (BUS 200kms 4-5 hours), we will drive along the Karakorum Highway winding for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez River. Then you ascend to an altitude of 3,900 meters by the shores of KARAKURI LAKE, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and camels graze on the rich pasturage. Then we drive 10 km to Subashi.

Day 4.

Trekking to Base camp In the morning we drive 10 km to Subashi and meet our camels and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the team’s equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb steadily through barren hills to the base camp, approximately a 4-hour walk. Camping.

Day 5-20.

Climbing Activity.Period for climbing of Muztag-Ata, which ask for building and supplying of three high camps.

Day 21.

Base Camp/Subash/Kashgar(Trekking+Bus). In the morning we will go down to Subashi, again our gear will be taken by camels. At Subashi our transport to Kashgar will be waiting and we will arrive there in early evening. Hotel accommodation.

Day 22.

Kashgar. City tour at Kashgar, last day of the expedition. Our tour includes the tombs of Abakh Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar, the famous Id Kah Mosque and the most unique old town with typical Uyghur styled homes. We visit the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops, bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters.

Day 23.

Kashgar/Torugart Pass (BUS) After breakfast, drive to the Torugart Pass; crossing the China-Kyrgyzstan border. Transfer to Naryn, guest house or yurt accommodation.

Day 24.

Transfer Naryn – Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

Day 25.

Transport to airport, flight home.

The price includes:

1. Formalities and permit to climb the summit
2. Communication officer in the base camp
3. Accommodation and meals in the base camp during the expedition
4. Transfers: Bishkek – Naryn – Torugart – Kashgar – Subashi – and back
5. Hotel accommodation (based on TWN rooms) and yurt camps according the program  
6. Meals according the program
7. Porters and camels from Subashi to the base camp and back
8. Complete kitchen equipment incl. kitchen tent , mess tent ,tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set, etc.
9. Tent in the base camp for the period of expedition
10. Visa support if necessary
11. Tour leader of the expedition 
The price does not includes:
1. Visa
2. All changes during the program (extra transfers, extra days in towns or base camp)
3. Equipment for climbing higher than the Base camp (high altitude tents, high altitude food)
4. Porters for climbing higher than the Base camp
5. Single supplement is 145 USD/ per person
6. Excursions, which are not listed
7. Extra meals and alcoholic drinks
8. Accommodation and meals for any extra days in Bishkek or Kashgar, which are not included in the program
9. Personal guide for ascending is 3300 USD
10. Personal equipment (sleeping bags, shoes, snowshoes, and etc)

***In the case that tourists have decided to finish their expedition earlier, payment for any unused days at the base camp is non-refundable. Additionally they will also have to pay for their transfer from base camp back to Bishkek, accommodation and nutrition in the cities.

*** The program will take place only in case that group is completed with 10 people, if there are not enough participants, organizers have a right to cancel the expedition or shift the other dates.

Necessary documents:
International passport valid for more than 6months after the last expedition day.

Alpine medical insurance.


It is an obligation to have a climbing insurance in case of any accident.

Tour leader will have a first aid kit, but you are strongly recommended to bring your own personal aid kit. One month before expedition starts, we recommend you to start taking vitamins.


Recommended equipment:

  • High-altitude tent
  • Cooking set
  • Crampons (ex.Grivel G12)
  • Back pack  (40-50 lt)
  • Harness – better Petzl or Black Diamond with wide lower straps
  • Safety system
  • Carabiner with clutch – 3-4 pieces
  • Jumar
  • Telescopic trekking sticks
  • Thermos for hot tea
  • Release device –“eight” type
  • Ice axe
  • Snowshoes or skis for ski tour
  • Helmet lamp
  • Camera
  • Video camera and accessories
  • Storage battery

 List of recommended clothes:

  • Trekking shoes
  • Plastic mountaineering boots
  • Downy jacket and pants (better snow suit)
  • Gore-Tex jacket with big hood
  • Gore-Tex pants
  • Wind block jacket
  • Wind block pants
  • Polartex jacket-100 – 2
  • Thermo underwear – 2 kits
  • Personal underwear
  • Polartex gloves – 2 pairs
  • Mittens – 2 pairs
  • Warm woolen socks – 4-5 pieces
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Face wind block mask
  • UV glasses
  • Ski glasses (preferable)
  • Gaiters

Muztagh Ata Kalaksong, Koskulak peak 6849 from the west
 Muztagh Ata Kalaksong, Koskulak peak 6849 from the west (photo by Mashenin, August 2005)

Muztagh Ata 7546m

Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata (Turkic ‘ice-mountain-father’), is the second highest (7546 meters) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamir. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.

Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the “Chinese Pamir”, and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.

The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.

The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.

Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005.

The youngest person to climb Mustagh Ata is Marius Bergsmark Bjertness. He is from Norway and was at the summit 19th of July 2005 at an age of 15 years, 10 months and 14 days (born 6th of September 1989).



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